What does “号 (gou)” mean in knitting?

It’s the Japanese number used to indicate needle size.

Are Japanese needle sizes metric?

Each JPN number corresponds to a specific mm size.

Why do Japanese needles differ from US/UK sizes?

Japan developed its own standard independent of Western systems.

Can I substitute US needles for Japanese ones?

Yes. Match the closest mm size.

Do Japanese patterns list mm sizes?

Yes. They often include both mm and JPN numbers.

Why do Japanese DPN sets include 4 needles instead of 5?

This is the normal configuration in Japanese knitting.

Are Japanese needles good quality?

Yes—Japanese bamboo and metal needles are known for precision and smoothness.

Japanese Knitting Needle Sizes Explained

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Japanese knitting needles use a unique numbering system that ranges from 0 to 15, and each number corresponds to a specific metric (mm) size. These numbers do not match US or UK needle sizes, which makes conversion essential when following Japanese knitting patterns. In Japanese instructions, needle sizes are usually written as 「棒針●号」(bou-bari ● gou). Once you understand the numbering system and its mm equivalents, reading Japanese patterns becomes simple and predictable.

This guide explains the Japanese sizing system, conversion charts, pattern notations, and how Japanese sizes compare to US and UK needles.

Why Japanese Needle Sizes Are Different

Japan developed its needle sizing system independently, based on older Japanese industrial gauge standards. This means:

JPN sizes do not follow US or UK numbering.
A JPN number does not match the same US number.
JPN sizes increase in consistent mm increments, unlike the irregular US system.

Because of this, metric (mm) size is the most reliable way to match Japanese needles with international patterns.

How Japanese Needle Sizes Are Written

Japanese knitting patterns typically use the following notation:

棒針 (bou-bari) = knitting needle
号 (gou) = size number

Example:

「棒針 6号」 = Japanese size 6 knitting needle

This corresponds to approximately 3.9mm, not US 6 (which is 4.0mm).

Where Japanese Needle Sizes Appear in Patterns

Materials list
Gauge instructions
Needle recommendations
Pattern diagrams and schematics

Japanese Knitting Needle Conversion Chart (JPN → MM → US → UK)

Below is a complete conversion chart for common Japanese needle sizes.

JPN Size	Metric (mm)	US Size	UK Size
0	2.0 mm	US 0	UK 14
1	2.4 mm	—	—
2	2.7 mm	US 2	UK 12
3	3.0 mm	—	UK 11
4	3.3 mm	US 3	—
5	3.6 mm	US 4	—
6	3.9 mm	US 5	—
7	4.2 mm	US 6	UK 8
8	4.5 mm	US 7	UK 7
9	4.8 mm	US 8	UK 6
10	5.1 mm	US 9	UK 5
11	5.4 mm	US 9–10	UK 4
12	5.7 mm	US 10.5	UK 3
13	6.0 mm	US 10.75	UK 2
14	6.3 mm	US 11	UK 0
15	6.6 mm	—	—

Use a needle size converter whenever you need to match Japanese needles with US or UK sizes.

How Japanese Needle Sizes Compare to US and UK

Japanese needles progress in neat mm steps, while US and UK needles jump irregularly.

Key Differences

JPN size 6 (3.9mm) is not the same as US 6 (4mm).
JPN size 8 (4.5mm) aligns with US 7.
JPN numbers do not correspond to UK numbers.
Japanese patterns rely heavily on mm accuracy.

Whenever in doubt, trust the metric (mm) measurement over the number.

Choosing the Right Needle for Japanese Patterns

Focus on the Metric Size

Japanese patterns expect knitters to follow the mm size precisely. Always match the mm value first.

Check Gauge Carefully

Knit a small swatch.
Adjust your needle size up or down by 0.25–0.5mm.
Japanese lace and lightweight garments often require precision.

Common Tools in Japan

Circular needles: 60cm–80cm common for sweaters and shawls.
Double-pointed needles (DPNs): often sold in sets of 4 instead of 5.

Popular Japanese Needle Brands

Clover (竹針 – Bamboo)

Smooth, light and warm in the hands
Excellent for lace and fine yarns

Tulip

High-quality metal and nickel-plated needles
Great for tight or fast knitters

Kinki Amibari

Premium Japanese bamboo
Comfortable and balanced

Each brand has its own feel, which can subtly affect your gauge.

How Needle Size Affects Japanese Pattern Fit

Japanese fashion often favors:

Lightweight fabrics
Open drape
Delicate stitch patterns

This means mm precision is more important in Japanese knitting than in many Western patterns. Even a small 0.2mm difference can change drape, fit, and lace clarity.

Common Problems and Troubleshooting

“My gauge doesn’t match the Japanese pattern.”Try a 0.25mm or 0.5mm adjustment.

“My US needles don’t match the JPN size listed.”Choose the closest metric (mm) value.

“Another chart gives different conversions.”Manufacturers sometimes round differently. Trust mm first.

“Why do Japanese DPNs come in sets of 4?”This is standard practice in Japan for balanced circular knitting.

Key Takeaways

●Japanese needles use the 0–15 gou (号) system.
●JPN numbers do not match US or UK needle numbers.
●Always match metric (mm) size first.
●Japanese patterns expect precision.
●Conversion charts help avoid confusion.
●Brands like Clover and Tulip offer excellent Japanese needles.

FAQs

Final Words

Japanese knitting needle sizes may seem confusing at first, but once you understand the 「号」 system and the mm equivalents, Japanese patterns become easy to follow. Always prioritize the metric measurement, check your gauge, and use the needle size converter or full chart for quick guidance.